The understanding of color 2018

Hair color and what it is! Hair colorist Martin Rodriguez

Over the years I have worked with so many color lines  from liquid lines to wax based or tube color , The number one thing to understand about color is that they all have a back ground color with the exception of one line that I love to use now cause it gives me the control to be the colorist and choosing the right formulations for each of my clients.

Organic hair Color no AMMONIA WITH M.E.A: Monoethanol amine, Ethanol amines ,Alcohol,Amino Methyl propanol

The word organic is so wrongly used ,Specially in hair color why? in order for hair color to work it needs a chemical reaction.


Organic hair colors no longer contain ammonia , What they do contain is M.E.A a product that needs to be understood by colorist.Depending on the products we use , we create the ph level in the hair, hair dressers have being told that the hair has a ph level of 4.5 to 5.5 Wrong here is why if we use a color that contains ph levels of 8.5 and above we are changing the ph levels.

Martin rodriguez was one of the first Organic hair color educators AND USER OF  Organic colors I think as a hair colorist we must provide Great products and have the right knowledge when it come to what we are using.

Permanent hair-color

  Great for deposit or adding tones will last longer covers gray hair will add body and texture.


Semi hair color  acid base : A great product for hair-gloss , does not lighten hair, good for hair that is dull and needs shine on contrast. Will not cover gray hair.

Demi hair color with no alkalinity:  A great product to take hair back to natural or adding low lights shadows and definition, blending gray hair, refreshing color and great for corrective hair color without the ammonia, contains E.m.a .

Hair lighters and bleaches vs High lift hair color 

Bleaches and hi-lift color are the same product, Bleach was made to work in a evenly time period of 

Forty Five minutes , and a lower ph level of 10.3.

High lift tints or color are made to work in a higher scale and with a bigger punch from the get go due to a higher PH level of 11.2.

Most hair stylist  don’t  know the difference between these two , High lift hair color and bleach are the same!

In Oder for hair color to work the chemical products in hair color and the PH levels have to be higher in order for the color to work properly .

We as hair dresser must know this and need to understand how to bring the levels of ph back to a 4.5 or 5.5 specially if we are working with high level of ph hair color or EMA products.


Olaplex and other protective so called treatments : I get some many calls and clients ask if i use olaplaex in my hair color services, here is my answer I don’t work with more than one client at a time. I believe that if i know how to treat the hair when we are using chemicals and keeping the hair at a great ph level there is no reason for me to add plastics or coatings to the hair. I do use keratin and Ceramides in my hair colors and lighteners due to the hair is made of amino acids and proteins by believe is to replace what we took away when doing a hair color service.

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